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Each SKF [Trailer bearings] repair kit contains inner and outer bearings, grease seal and cotter pin. Six SKF kits cover 90% of  all utility and  boat trailers; three kit numbers alone cover most 3/4”,  1” and 1 1/4” axles.

Let's face it: When you tow a trailer behind your vehicle, all you really want to do is get your payload from one location to another with minimal effort. You don't want the trailer to rock and rattle any more than is necessary, and you sure don't want it to slow you down. Luckily, you have a friend in this endeavor: Trailer bearings.

If you ever have to open up a wheel hub on a trailer, chances are you're going in to either grease the bearings or replace them because you didn't. The key is to make sure the Trailer bearings stay greased on your own terms, so you don't find yourself replacing them on the side of the road at an inopportune time.

Now, you'll want to take the inner and outer nsk bearing cages out of their races to clean them. Remove as much grease as possible from the parts with rags, then w­ash them in solvent or degreaser and leave them out to dry. Once dry, inspect the parts to make sure there are no visible signs of rust, corrosion or other damage. If you find any problems, you'll need to replace the parts.

Once you have clean, dry parts ready for reassembly, it's time to gob on some fresh bearing grease. With boat trailers, you'll need to grease the entire hub to help keep water out. Otherwise, just grease the race surfaces and pack the bearings with as much grease as they'll hold. You can perform this task by hand or with a timken bearing packer, which typically costs $20 or less. Once packed, insert the inner bearing and seal, followed by the outer bearing and seal. Be sure to grease the spindle along the way. Once these are back in place, all you have to do is install the washer, castle nut, and dust cap or bearing protector. Then simply put the wheel back on and jack the trailer back down.

KTR 201 90x130

KTR 201 60x90

KTR 200 45x75